It is the
third week of January and a time I like to jokingly refer to as the thermal
solstice. At least statistically this tends to be coldest time of the year in the
Northern Hemisphere -and it's also is seen as the most depressing. You have
that big letdown after Christmas, the bills from the holidays are coming in and
spring looks like it's years away. A few of my friends would say if it wasn't
the Super Bowl they would have nothing to live for.
Because of
family and work it's impossible to get away to some place warm and sunny. So if
the body can't go at least the imagination can wander. I've been Florida enough
to know what's there but I certainly would not turn a chance to spend a week in
South Beach, Gainesville or Cedar Keys. I have never been to Louisiana. My wife and I
have been saving up for a trip to New Orleans. Our two sons are ready to leave
home and be adults on their own, so we no longer have any reason to have
another sedate family vacation.
New Orleans
is were the Old South and the Caribbean cross paths. I know I have a million
images of southern Louisiana and they are probably all wrong. That's okay with
me, I don't mind having the chance to trade in my ignorance for firsthand
knowledge. But just look at the source materials that are available to me up here in Pensylvania, like
the TV shows Treme and True Blood -and books by James Lee Burke and Ann Rice. Based on that alone you would think the whole
area is filled with jazz musicians, murderers and vampires.
My first
interest in New Orleans started with grade school American history. The abbreviated
version taught in the classroom seemed suspiciously skimpy and soon I was reading on my own about the Crescent
City. How the whole mid-west needed to
ship everything though New Orleans if they wanted export to the rest of the
world. The irony that the Battle of New Orleans was fought three weeks after
the peace treaty was signed. The slave trade, voodoo, Dreamland and the jazz age,
how General Benjamin Butler got the nick name "spoons" or the trek of
the Arcadian French relocating from Canada to what was still French territory.
All of that history is fascinating.
The next thing
that drew my interest to southern Louisiana was the music of Credence
Clearwater Revival. Cut me a break here, I was a kid back then, I had no idea
the band was from Encino California and they were inspired by the same
marginally true and overly romantic images that everyone else was feed. You add
in the movies Easy Rider and Hard Times and I was hooked on the myth.
Any myth is
just a cardboard cutout of the truth. The truth has depth and is always more
complex then the story that gets sold to the tourists and outsiders. Slowly I
started to pick up little bits and pieces of the real music traditions of the
region. The Jazz, R&B and Rock and Roll were pretty easy to keep separate
though you hear were each genre borrowed something from the other. For an untrained ear the differences between
Creole, Cajun and Zydeco were a bit more subtle.
I've come to
appreciate sad plaintive ballads in a language I do I speak. And I always perk
up to a dance beat played on the accordion. I don't know enough about the music to have long and detailed playlists of favorites
-nor could I compare and contrast one performer with another. But I know what I
like and I'm open to hear whatever else is out there.
All of this and more is the Louisiana of my dreams.
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